10 iconic Irani Cafes In Mumbai to check out for the best bun maskas, sali boti, berry pulao and more

Walking into any Irani cafe in Mumbai can make you feel like you’ve time-travelled through a portal. Bentwood chairs, peeling plasters on walls, chequered tablecloths and posters from yesteryears; these eateries are as much a symbol of rich history as they are of unparalleled taste.

As your nose seeks out the rich fragrance from the kitchen beyond yonder, you can’t help but marvel at the menu. Sali boti, farcha, dhansak, berry pulao… how on earth do you pick just one? With its affordable rates, you don’t really have to; and if you have time (and curiosity) on your side, then you can have your dish served with a side of history. After all, most of these Irani cafes have been around for centuries and have some fascinating stories to tell.

10 iconic Irani cafes in Mumbai to check out for your next binge

1. Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery

Located near the bustling Flora Fauna Fountain at Fort, the Yazdani Bakery is a favourite among those sporting a sweet tooth. While the apple pie is the vintage bakery’s number one seller, its mawa cakes, bread puddings and khari biscuits aren’t too far behind. The Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery was set up in the 1950s and survived the vestiges of times and urbanisation, and is currently run by the family’s third generation. In its bid to stay true to its roots, the bakery still uses an old-world bread cutter and large diesel ovens to whip out its choicest baked goods.

2. Kyani & Co

A favourite among Xavierites, Kyani & Co in Marine Lines was established by Khodram Marezaban in the early 1900s and some say that it’s the city’s oldest Iranian cafe. The cafe is buzzing in the mornings, with college students and office goers stopping by for a quick brekkie of sausages and fried eggs, a bun maska and Irani chai. Later in the day, you’ll find the tables, with their red-chequered tablecloths, filled with full meals of mutton dhansak, kheema pav and chicken farcha. With its rustic look and preference for minimalism, Kyani’s can truly be considered one of Mumbai’s most iconic heritage eateries. 

3. Sassanian Boulangerie

This Iranian cafe, located in Marine Lines, has also been around for hundreds of years, with its base being set by Rustam Kaikushru Yezdabadi, back in 1913. It’s said that before Independence, the cafe was a hotspot for Iranian jockeys, who would stop by for a cuppa before heading to their polo matches. Sometime around 1947, the ownership changed hands and it was taken over by Khodabad M Kola. Initially, Sassianian was run as a basic goods store selling tea, cakes and biscuits, before it expanded into a larger departmental store. In 1960, it turned into a cafe and today features the dhansak, sali chicken and Lagan Nu Custard among its top sells.

4. Britannia & Co

Considering its prime location within the Ballard Estate in Fort, Britannia & Co, a charming Iranian cafe established in 1923 by Roshan Kohinoor, is arguably the most popular among its contemporaries and serves a mean berry pulao. The iconic dish, which today features in any eatery serving Parsi fare, can be credited to one Bachan Kohinoor, the wife of the late Boman Kohinoor, who was even more famous than the cafe itself. Calling himself the royal family’s “biggest fan”, Boman, who passed away at the age of 97 back in 2019, had even met the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, Prince William and Kate Middleton, during their official visit to India in 2016. The sali boti, raspberry soda and caramel custard are also big hits here.

5. Cafe Military

Tucked deep within the bylanes of Fort, Cafe Military, built in 1952, is known for dishing out authentic Iranian fare for the better part of a century. It revels in the key items, like its delicious rendition of chicken biryani and kheema sali, which can be washed down with a chilled and rarely found Kangaroo beer that’s got quite the kick.

6. Cafe Excelsior

Situated between the colonial-style buildings that characterise the Fort area, Cafe Excelsior was established in 1913 by Ardeshir Mazkoori and is today known best for its delightsome mutton burger, which some have labelled the best in town. The mutton cutlet gravy, sali boti, chicken and mutton dhansak, and bread puddings also feature in the must-have category.

7. Ideal Corner

Recently renovated, this charming Irani cafe in Fort should feature on your list for its Kheema Ghotala, a dish made of minced mutton, scrambled with egg and served with loaves of soft pav. Despite its limited seating capacity, the cafe, which has been around since 1985, serves up some great chicken farcha and sali boti. If you’re indulging in the same, don’t forget to wash it all down with a chilled bottle of ice-cream soda.

8. B. Merwan & Co

Established outside the eastern gate of the busy Grant Road Station, B. Merwan & Co has been delighting Mumbaikars with its trademark bun maska, Iranian chai and mawa cakes since 1914. This Iranian cafe, with its fading facades and marble tables, has tales to tell, having witnessed events like the World War and the fight for Independence, unravel. Photographers keen on capturing the city’s old spirit should certainly stop by here, and dig into a plate of buttery buns, jam puffs and bhurji pavs.

9. Cafe Gulshan

One of the only Irani cafes outside the Fort/Churchgate/Grant Road area, Cafe Gulshan finds a home in Matunga and is a favourite among students from Podar, Ruia and Welingkar colleges. It’s especially known for its easy-to-eat snacks like bun maska with Irani chai, kheema pav and caramel custard.

10. Jimmy Boy

Located near the famous Horniman Circle, Jimmy Boy sets itself a little apart from other Irani cafes with its veg or non veg Lagan Nu Bhonu (or wedding thali) that contains a full seven-course meal and is traditionally served on banana leaves. The berry pulao, Patra ni macchi and dhansaks from the ala carte menu are also crowd favourites.

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