Gujarati Parsi Cuisine: Persian Memories, Gujarati Flavors, Plus a Dash of Britain
When on their arrival in India, the Parsis promised to blend with the natives like ‘sugar in milk’, the community adapted to the new climate and culture, and adopted several traditions that included the local language as well as that of the foreign rulers who came later. Over the centuries, with Parsi cuisine absorbing innumerable elements from the new land, while still holding on to its Persian roots, a new cuisine emerged — one with a distinct identity of its own!
“He who fills his body with nourishing food is filled with good thoughts which lead to good deeds…”, thus wrote Dadabhai Naoroji, The Grand Old Man of India, aptly and concisely summing up the Parsi sentiment towards food, as much more than mere sustenance. Food, to a Parsi, is as much about taste and enjoyment, as it is about a sense of belonging and becoming one with a new land and its people.
Becoming Local
According to Kamal of Bawa Zest, Mumbai, “When Parsis fled Persia (now Iran) and reached India via the Strait of Hormuz, settling mostly in places like Sanjan in Gujarat, they obviously brought their food culture along. Naturally, they also borrowed a lot from the local cuisine in terms of ingredients and cooking styles. Much later, owing to opportunities under the British, they came to the then Bombay, where their cuisine was further influenced, resulting in the current day Parsi cuisine that is a fusion of authentic Persian dishes mixed with local Indian Gujarati cuisine, and some British influence as well.”
A Gujarati Parsi herself, Kamal elaborates her point with famous examples, “The popular dish dhansak, is originally from Iran, where meat was cooked with lentils and spinach. The spices which are now added are a contribution of the local Gujarati cuisine. Saas ni macchi, on the other hand, is a British-influenced dish where fish is cooked in a white sauce, similar to Béchamel.”
Adopting Ingredients and Cooking Techniques
Chef Arzooman Irani, executive chef at Hilton Jaipur demonstrates Kamal’s point with more examples, “The famous patra ni machhi, a preparation of pomfret marinated in a green mint-chili-coconut chutney flavored with ginger, garlic, turmeric, cumin powder, and lime juice, is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. Chicken farcha, a popular chicken dish, is seasoned with local spices and fried, and makes its presence felt on all special occasions.”
The ingredients used in this cuisine are vast too considering the fact that local ingredients were paired with Persian favorites that were carried forward. The report Circuits of Authenticity: Parsi Food, Identity, and Globalisation in 21st Century Mumbai by Anirudh Raghavan, Syeda Asia, and Vanshika Singh states, “a cuisine of the rich and affluent, Parsi cuisine made extensive use of expensive ingredients such as saffron, cardamom, vanilla, walnuts, and dried fruits such as dates and apricots, and meat. The preparations tended to be fairly elaborate, involving multiple processes of cooking and several ingredients.” The report also touches upon British influences on the cuisine.
According to ‘Circuits of Authenticity…’, M. M. Murzban, in his 1917 monograph on the customs of the Parsis, comments on the enthusiasm of wealthy Bombay-based Parsi businessmen in adopting various British culinary customs such as eating with forks and knives, food being served course-wise, and finishing the meal with cakes, sweetened breads, and pastries. They even employed Goan cooks and nannies like the British, leading to Goan dishes such as prawn curry-rice becoming an intrinsic part of Parsi cuisine.
Taking a Deeper Look
Though the mere mention of a Parsi meal conjures images of dhansak, patra ni machhi, salli boti, and lagan nu custard, the cuisine boasts a much larger repertoire of dishes — all of which also showcase the Persian-Gujarati-British merging. Chef Arzooman substantiates, “This cuisine has a balance of the three S’ — sweet, sour and spicy. To achieve the balance, characteristic Persian flavorings such as saffron, cinnamon, parsley, and dried lime, are mixed delicately and used in special dishes. While the vinegar is the Portuguese influence, the onion and garlic register Iran’s presence, and the seafood is the Indian west coasts’ contribution to the famous “kolmi nu patio” more commonly known as the prawn patio. This is a must with the dhan-daar (dal and rice), which is cooked on every auspicious occasion along with the ‘methi ni bhaji’ without which the meal is incomplete.”
Irani feels that although essentially non-vegetarian, Parsi homes do indulge in vegetarian dishes, as well as pickles — a clear adoption of Gujarati and Bombay traditions. “Papri (flat beans) for example, are popular.” Other vegetables that feature in Parsi recipes are okra, brinjals, vaal, plantains, and a host of root vegetables. However, in many cases, there’s a slight catch that Chef Irani points out, “Parsis also love eggs. Eggs are not merely eaten at breakfast, but form a very popular part of lunch and dinner, often substituting for meat. Parsis have the affinity for using eggs with vegetables as seen in papeta par eedu (beaten eggs on sliced potatoes), bheeda par eedu (beaten eggs on okra), and of course, the parsi pora (omlette).”
The tri-cultural merging is even seen in distinctive ‘Bombay Parsi’ sweets and desserts like dates nu ghari, lagan nu custard and doodh nu puff. Kamal avers, “Lagan nu custard and caramel custard, two popular Parsi desserts, definitely owe their origin to the British, along with other baked desserts. Whereas, lesser-known traditional dishes like malido (sheera made using flour, semolina, cashew nuts, and almonds), kumas (cake made using toddy), and bhakra (deep-fried sweet dough), are an influence of Gujarati cuisine.”
Considering the deep cultural interlinks that Parsi cuisine comprises, demystifying it for someone who has never encountered it, would prove to be quite a task. I personally think Chef Arzooman Irani does perfect justice with his description of the cuisine as, “a happy blend of East and West, which makes it uniquely different.”
The author, an alumnus of IIMC New Delhi, is an independent writer, food critic, and columnist. With a background in food and nutrition, she specializes in the food and beverage space and contributes to several leading publications. She also has her own YouTube channel – Mini’s Food Fundas and Indian regional food is her all-time favorite.
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